The Muslim neighbourhoods of modern Thessaloniki
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The most important homogeneous Muslim neighbourhood was the Bairi (hillside), inside the walls of the Old Town, though there were many others scattered near the Kalamaria Gate and what is today Navarinou Square.
The Bairi district, free of the asphyxiating crush that typified the rest of the city and endowed with a better climate, impressed visitors with its clean, flagstoned streets, its large courtyards with their cypress trees and its picturesque architecture. The houses were decorated with sayings from the Koran, and had their upper storeys painted red, while the lower one was painted black to ward off bad luck.
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